The morning was brilliant and crisp as we started our hike
along the Friedrich August Weg, which circles the Sassolungo. We had
views of the Marmolada glacier in the distance (see upper-left corner of photo), shimmering in the early morning
sun, and the first hour or so of our walk was spent in near solitude. Then the
vast throngs of people who venture round the Sassolungo for a day hike after
being dropped off from a big bus at Passo Sella descended upon us like flies.
It was the first and only time we saw an overweight person on the trail. But
you know what? They were out there and they were hiking, and at home, even most thin people seem to make it off the bus at the pass,
visit the restaurant, call it a day, and proudly put a check mark beside
Sassolungo in their book of really cool
places that they had experienced and would live to tell people about—in very loud
voices, mind you—for years to come.
Anyway, our destination was Selva, a village tucked between
two valleys that seemed to have plenty of money yet no air of superiority. Our
goal there was onefold: we desperately needed cash to pay for the next several
nights because most rifugios only dealt in cash. However, our last attempts in
Castelrotto at various and sundry ATMs had been denied, and we started to get
this sick feeling that our account had been frozen, even though we called the
bank before we left to alert them to our overseas status. So we stopped at the first bank we
saw, and again were rejected. Then we dropped the backpacks off at our pension and
headed to find a payphone. After finally finding the only payphone in town, we
struggled for 30 minutes to make a collect call. We couldn’t get through. I
figured it had something to do with international calling codes, so we went to
the tourist office and asked what the calling code for a collect call to the US
was. Poor girl. She tried. When that failed, we went to an actual bank to see
if they could help us. Poor well-dressed man. He failed too. And then we went
back to the pension to see if we could use the phone there. The bartender gave
us directions to the local phone company, as if talking to someone in a small utility van would help. So then we went back up to the room
so that I could cry a little bit and eat some chocolate because chocolate
always helps.
And boy, did it ever because I then got an idea, and I
picked up our cell phone, which we only brought along to use as an alarm clock,
and I dialed the number, and by god, I got through. And 20 minutes later, I
said the following sentence to the woman on the other end of the line: “Carmen,
you are my most favorite person in the world today.” Carmen didn’t seem
particularly flattered or appreciated, but maybe she is someone with personal
space issues and didn’t want to receive a hug over the phone but did anyway and
then felt like washing her hands thereafter or something. Regardless, we left
the pension, walked to the nearest ATM, and withdrew the most beautiful euros I
had ever seen.
And feeling particularly relieved and confident, we walked
to a sporting goods store where we were waited on hand and foot by a young,
swarthy Italian who wasn’t going to let The Americans get away without making a
purchase, so we left with the cheapest pair of Nordic walking poles they
had—only one pair because Jason wasn’t yet sure if they would do him any good.
But as we left, I had a feeling that I was going to enjoy the hell out of those
poles, and that my fate was sealed as (a) a 30-year-old octogenarian, and (b)
my father’s daughter.
By the way, that phone call cost us $25.80, but it was worth every penny.